Hydroquinone Friend or Foe
Hydroquinone is a chemical commonly used in skincare preparations designed to lighten the skin especially in cases of hyperpigmentation. It is used to reduce the appearance of what are perceived to be imperfections. As a skincare ingredient it is the subject of controversy.
Why the controversy? Is it safe to use?
What is Hydroquinone?
Having been around since 1820 when it was made in France, hydroquinone is a white, granular solid derived from benzene (a petrochemical) and is primarily a bleaching agent.
It is used in the production of black and white photographs, the production of some polymers and also as a stabilizer in paints and motor fuels. It is most commonly known for its use in topical skincare products, most specifically skin-lightening creams aimed at fading hyperpigmentation.
What is Hyperpigmentation?
All skin color is created by melanin. Its natural level dictates the overall skin tone but excess melanin results in hyperpigmentation and formation of dark(er) patches on the skin.
The dark patches may be natural (freckles), solar lentigines (sun spots), melasma or an after-effect of skin inflammation such as acne scars, eczema scars, burns or cuts. They may also be a side effect of Lupus. It is most likely to affect areas of the skin most exposed to sunlight.
In most cases, hyperpigmentation is harmless but may occasionally indicate an underlying condition.
The Effect of Hydroquinone on Hyperpigmentation
Hydroquinone interrupts and prevents the production of excess melanin by reducing the number of melanocytes (melanin producing cells) present in the skin and by breaking down existing melanin pigment clusters.
Is it Safe to Use?
This is the basis of the controversy surrounding hydroquinone. The question of safety is a historical issue.
(Please note: The history related here is for the drug in the USA but the global skincare industry tends to react in the same way and usually follows suit with regard to product regulation.)
In 1982, the FDA advised that hydroquinone was effective and safe. Several years later due to concerns over unregulated products and products containing contaminants and toxins such as mercury and phenols, all products containing hydroquinone were withdrawn from the market.
There had been side effects of redness, irritation, burning and swelling and also, exogenous ochronosis, which causes darkened black-blue patches of skin and complete de-pigmentation.
Subsequently though, thanks to the USA’s 2020 CARES Act, the status of hydroquinone is rather murky. It has neither been approved as safe nor given the status of GRASE (generally recognized as safe).
While it remain in limbo (awaiting further action from the FDA – which may never happen) most experts believe hydroquinone can be safely sold over the counter in 2 percent concentrations but must contain directions that treatment can only be for three months use.
Studies to date have ruled out or found little evidence linking hydroquinone to cancer or infertility.
Should I use it?
Most experts and research agree that hydroquinone itself is not harmful, and if formulated correctly and used appropriately, hydroquinone can be a safe and effective ingredient to hyperpigmentation
If used regularly, hydroquinone can provide visible results in four weeks.
Hydroquinone treatment for fading dark skin is more effective if carried out in the winter when the UV effect of the sun’s rays is reduced.
What Precautions Do I Need to Take When Using Hydroquinone?
Although hydroquinone has been shown to be well-tolerated and has a low risk of side effects, there are things that you can do to maximize efficacy and minimize any risk.
- Only buy products with a maximum concentration of 2 percent hydroquinone
- Do a skin patch test before full use to test for allergies or reactions
- Do not exceed the stated dose
- Discontinue treatment after three months
- Discontinue treatment immediately if there is any reaction to the product and seek medical advice.
- Always wear sunscreen of at least SPF 30 when outdoors.
Ready to try hydroquinone? Here are our favorite hyperpigmentation-fading products.
Nu-Derm Clear, , a brightening cream that helps correct hyperpigmentation, such as dark spots, sun spots, age spots, melasma, and other types of discoloration, for a healthier-looking, more even skin tone.
C RX C-Clarifying Serum - Normal-Oily Skin, a clarifying serum that reduces the appearance of dark spots and improves skin color for a lighter and brighter complexion. Suitable for normal to oily skin.
C RX C-Clarifying Serum - Normal-Dry Skin, a clarifying serum that reduces the appearance of dark spots and improves skin color for a lighter and brighter complexion. Suitable for normal to dry skin.
